Little Ingrid Bergman had a rough childhood in Sweden worthy of Ingmar Bergman. Orphaned early on, her only joy was … crayfish! We had these critters back in Ohio but wouldn’t dream of eating them, although they are much esteemed in Texas and the Mississippi delta area. In Sweden, they are an event. In midsummer the crayfish madness reaches its peak. The tradition is to wear a really stupid hat while you are eating, and drinking, and drinking, and eating. Just like in the US South, the Swedes know to suck the flavorful juices out of the heads.
If you can get live crayfish, they are wonderful. If not, don’t worry. Large shrimp are pretty wonderful as well. Cook them the day before and serve them cold, with a potato or root celery salad.
3 quarts/3 liters water
2 cups/500 ml dark beer
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 large bunch fresh dill (preferably one that has ‘crowned’ – already flowered, but don’t worry about it as long as it’s normal fresh dill)
1/4 cup/50 g sea salt
5 pounds fresh live crayfish (or 5 pounds fresh shrimp, heads on) (if they are frozen, let them thaw in the refrigerator before boiling)
In a large pot, pour the water and beer and add the sugar, dill and sea salt. Bring to a boil and cook two or three minutes before adding the crayfish or shrimp. Cook, stirring, until they are just cooked through. Sacrifice one to test.
During the cooking, fill the sink or a large basin with ice water. As soon as the crayfish are cooked enough, move the pot to the ice water for cooling. Stir occasionally until they are cool, then cover and place in the refrigerator overnight.
Strain the crayfish and place in a large bowl, with another bowl for the empty shells. This is a messy and fun meal. Don’t forget to suck the heads!
For the dipping sauce, mix 1 cup/250 ml mayonnaise with 1/2 cup/125 ml sour cream, 1 clove of garlic, grated fine, and the juice and peel of 1/2 lemon.